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Greetings from 4b,
After about 5 weeks on road I am home. I thought I should conclude my saga lest I leave anyone in suspense. Before heading for the hills I thought I best check with the information people as to whether it is safe for me to hike my planned route in the High Tatras alone. The helpful lady said it should be fine and also suggested where to book the chalet and what train ticket to get. I have never been so prepared for hike, taking with me a map, first aid kit and even a compass. After stocking up with some supplies I headed for Stary Smokovec. First I had to buy my 3 day electric train pass. Rather than hoping for English I wrote my request down in Slovak and got the lobby man at the hotel to check it. The wee electric train weaved its way closer and closer to the hills. I was perplexed to see most of the trees in the area "cut" down, leaving only a few standing as a reminder that there once stood a forest before us. It wasn't until two days latter that I learnt that this destruction was not at the hand of man but of the wind. A huge storm in 2004 passed over the High Tatras from the north and almost every tree that resided below 1300 m was humbled to the earth. That must have been one powerful storm!
Once in Stary Smokovec I headed straight for the travel agency to book a place in a chalet. However after struggling to find the shop, I was annoyed to see it well closed. If anyone could help, the information station could. I bowled over there and the lady explained that the chalets were quite full due the long weekend coming up but gave them a call to see if they had room. Confused she first booked me a place for that very night and had to call them back to change it to the next day. With that all sorted I headed for my Eurocamp which pretty much touted itself as being the best camping site in existence. First I had to change trains at Tatranska Lomnica. After waiting for awhile, the train finally turned up. Just before boarding I realised it wasn't an electric one so ran into the ticket office to get my 40c train ticket. My stop was the first one and was in walking distance of Eurocamp. The camp was pretty much empty so I could put up my tent anywhere. I found a reasonably flat slab of grass and erected my tent in a couple of minutes. Thankfully little mould had taken hold since Belgium and with airing it was as fresh as ever. I then checked out the facilities. The "supermarket" was a dairy, the famed restaurant claiming to be open from 8-9 was closed, and the disco was also closed. There didn't appear to be a kitchen either. I found out latter there was one but it required getting the key and only sported a couple of hot plates and hot water.
After visually confirming the restaurant's closure I began to seriously contemplate actually having to have beer for dinner. Thankfully I went back to the office and asked where I could find food. The lady pointed to somewhere on this map where their restaurant stood. Confused I ask another guy and he explained that it resided in the section of the camp that I never knew about.
The menu contained some attempts at English descriptions but they were often confused with German. I decided to go with one of their kutchyen specialetys, which at least contained chicken. It turned out to be a skewered kebab with pork, chicken and beef. I ate this along side roasted potatoes with tasty shepherd cheese. I wandered back to my tent just as it was getting dark. There is little one can do whilst camping alone, except go to bed. It was a cool evening; a challenge for my two season synthetic sleeping bag. After an unsettled sleep I finally rose at 7.30 am. Looking from inside of my tent one would expect to find a dewy field. However, I soon realised it was all Lynton made condensation. A new potential form of recycling perhaps? Anyhow, I quickly tackled my breakfast. I had bought milk and muesli with out contemplating how I was to consume it. I had no bowl nor a spoon. At least I still had my trusty cup. I filled it with muesli and milk before chucking it back. Not pretty but it worked.
After leaving a bag of belongings with the reception I hopped to catch a train back towards the hills. A few minutes latter a train came going the wrong way. I assumed it would return in half an hour, but I ended up waiting 1.5 hours until I finally returned. Soon after I jumped on the next train to Stary Smokovec the ticket lady came around. I pulled out my wallet but I couldn't find my 3 day pass. Embarrassed, I searched everywhere but it was nowhere to be found. It actually was residing on the floor of my tent. I had to buy a new ticket, seriously depleting my cash supply. Finally in Stary Smokovec I bought pocket knife before looking for the track which was difficult enough.
The first section of the hike followed the tracks of a cable car up to the first chalet. Since I had plenty of time to get to my chalet I decided to take the side trips off to see some water falls. The High Tatras is more rocky than any of the parks I have walked in New Zealand. Beautifully rugged. I finally put my new knife to use on my salami as I supped on my lunch quietly by a stream. I finally made Zbojnicka Chata (Robber's Chalet; altitude 1960m) by 4pm. These chalets are much like the huts in the Tararuas but with extra services such as hot food and beer on tap which I immediately enjoyed. I enquired about the sleeping arrangements only to find that I actually wasn't booked for that night. Thankfully I arrived early enough to get one of the last remaining beds. The girl who served me held an intriguing beauty, reminiscent of someone back home. Dinner was preceded with one of the best honey enriched teas I have ever drunk. Included in the meal was deep fried battered cheese, mmmm.
There were many groups staying the night leaving a few of us singles to sit quietly to the side. Finally someone asked me in English where I was from and the table erupted into English. I was surrounded by Poles, Czechs and one Hungarian. We chatted the night away sipping our beer, hot wine and plum infused vodka. We were finally sent to bed at 11pm so those sleeping in the dining room could get some sleep. Everyone began getting up at 6.30am as the sun streamed into the room. After the traditional breakfast of salami, cheese and pepper on stale bread I was ready to head off for my longer day of hiking. Gragor, the Hungarian guy I met, was walking out the same way so I caught up with him on the track.
A few minutes away from chalet we saw two Tatra Mountain Chamois (mountain goats). One ran off but the other one was much more relaxed and posed for many photos as it ambled up the track. After we left the goat behind we hit a steep shingly bit of the track. It was hard work trying to avoid creating a rock slide whilst making headway. But the struggle was worth it, affording magnificent views at the saddle. The otherside was almost a sheer cliff face for 5m so chains and pegs where necessary for the descent. We passed over the other side, past patches of snow, onto the next saddle. We took a detour up Vychodna Vysoka, a peak reaching 2, 428.6 m. The view from the top was magnificent. In the north you see into Poland and the south into Slovakia. Back on the track we descended towards a the next mountain hotel that bore our lunch. Cabbage and sausage soup was a big hit. Gragor had a car and gave me a ride back to camp. After saying goodbyes he headed off further north.
As I headed for my tent I heard the pleasant sound of English from two new campers. They were Lisa and Ricky from Oz who had been traveling around in South America for 7 months before this short trip to Europe, finishing in China for three months. It was nice to have people to hang around and eat with especially with the stories they had to tell. The next morning I got up to finish packing and dry the inside of my tent out. After sharing breakfast they headed out to the hills and I got ready to catch my train to Poprad. I hurried to the station, arriving with less than a minute to spare. At Poprad I tried to spend my remaining cash. But rather than throwing it away I decided to change the 120 Slovak crowns back to euro. My next train arrived and I boarded. After showing the conductor my train pass he asked for my reservation. I didn't have one as it didn't say I needed one on the Internet. He told me I had to pay the exact amount I had just changed to euro. I offered to pay in euro but frustrated he said forget it and let me off. This train was 2 minutes late giving me less than two minutes to find my next train. Thankfully I ran to the correct train and boarded just as it departed.
There were a couple of Chinese tourists in my cabin but they spoke good English. They even shared with me some of the chicken that had bought for lunch. At one stop on the way a Hungarian uni student joined us. He asked if I spoke German as he didn't know much English. We ended up conversing about NZ, music, glasses vs contacts and alcohol in broken Eng-erman. He even gave me a sip of polanka, a very tasty spirit that is distilled from pure fruit. I caught my final train of the trip to Budapest and decided to walk to my hostel. It was a nice, new and cosy hostel quite close to town. I was thinking about heading into town but my feet though otherwise so I retired to the hostel. That evening I met another Aussie, Matt, and we went out to try some local food where we saw a couple of American tourists stumble down some stairs. One even went through the door and onto the footpath. Later I rang dad to wish him a happy late birthday.
The next day was my final full day holidaying. I first checked out the local flea market. It was filled with all sorts of rubbish as Emma had warned. I didn't find anything suitable for presents so headed off to church. I found a small Anglican one that was lead by a NZ priest. It was nice to have a church service that was slightly familiar to me. After a quick lunch I found a few last presents before heading out to the Statue Park. This was the most disappointing sight seen on this trip. It is a small garden area with maybe 20 statues from the communist era. It might have meant something if I was Hungarian or knew lots around communism but otherwise it isn't that interesting. One of the final things to do in Budapest was to hit the thermal baths. I decided to go to the most popular baths that are housed in the Gellert Hotel. Both genders have separate bathing areas so as to not discriminate against those who just "forgot" their togs. About half of the guys were wearing what was called an 'apron'. More like a white loin clothe. This was the first time I was happy to be vision impaired. I spent most of my time soaking in the 38oC, only occasionally chilling in the 8oC pool. I withstood the 55oC of the steam room for a couple of minutes before choosing to save my lungs. I ended with a short swim in the normal co-gender swimming pool. After exiting and scaling halfway up the hill to see the liberation monument, I remember that I was meant to be holding my togs in hand. The pools were closing soon so I had to pace a little faster up the hill and take the obligatory photos before the rapid decent. I made it just in time and found my togs and towl patiently waiting in the cupboard for me to wring them out and take them home.
The sun had gone and the lights began to shine. I wasn't going to make it to the castle or Parliament this trip but at least I could walk by them and take photos of the pretty lights. My feet were beginning to fail but just held out for the walk home. Everyone else was hanging back at the hostel. A few cool beers latter I packed and headed for bed. I had left arranging my mini-bus to the airport too late to get picked up at my desired time but at least I knew if I was picked up at 9am I would make my 12.35pm flight. I was to little too early to check in and had to search for things to do. There wasn't much to buy in this section of the airport but there was a ecumenical prayer room were I had some needed prayer time.
I was worried that my bag was going to be well over 20kg so I utilised the leaning technique which I am sure took a couple kg off the pack's weight. Once I was all checked in and through security I ran around looking for places to spend my remaining forints. I decided on a Hungarian Cookbook but I was a few hundred forints short. Having no better ideas I changed a couple of euros (losing $1 US worth) to buy it plus a pack of tic tacs.
The flight to London was smooth. Once landed we all had to queue for about 1 hr to get through a new set of security measures. Many misinformed people faced the loss of their duty free booze but I was on the game having all mine stashed in my pack. I pulled out my last few pounds and got a burger for lunch. I was meant to have a three hour stop over but when I went to look to find my departure gate, the flight was announced to be 1.5 hr delayed. I killed more time reading books and magazines in the shops before finally I thought my plane was boarding. They gave a final boarding call soon after and a few people began running with me. We finally got to the gate only to be told it was another Cathy Pacific flight to Hong Kong. We had to wait another hour before we finely boarded. I got an aisle seat with a spare seat next to me allowing me to get to get about 6 hours sleep interspersed with food, beer and movies. Finally in Hong Kong, 3 hrs late, it was really too late to make any foray into the city. I wondered through the many duty free and designer clothes stores. The cheapest things in the airport was food and ciggies. I changed $20 NZ sat down for some Chinese. I soon realised that I would struggle to spend all my cash so went in search for the cheapest tobacco product. I eventually found a small pack of pipe tobacco to buy for Aaron. I spent the final dollars on a small snack before my flight.
The next phase of the trip dragged on a little as I could hardly sleep. Thankfully there were some movies I wanted to see. After touching down I Auckland I had my last chance to hit duty free. I came away with an after shave pack, Drambuie (mmmm), port and cheap wine. Man I love NZ customs. I have not come across any customs more thorough. In Heathrow you can chose whether to declare items and even if you have some to declare there is sometimes no one to declare them too. My tent had to be checked and potentially sprayed but otherwise I got through Scotch free. It was good to be back in NZ.
There was only one more flight left for me. After the most ridiculous episode of Days of Our Lives, it was boarding time. Flying in NZ feels like a waste of time as you start to descend pretty much straight after finishing the ascent and you spend more time checking in and waiting for your luggage than flying. Hurrah, I was in Wellington at 4pm, some 40 hrs after since I left my hostel. I quietly caught the bus into town and enjoyed the picturesque stroll down Oriental Bay and thus the journey came to an end. I look forward to seeing you all soon. I think I shall put some photos on the net soon and provide the link for your viewing pleasure.
Thank you and goodnight,
Lynton